Everest Base Camp Trek — My Story of Conquering the Himalayas
Plan your Everest Base Camp trek with our complete guide & personal story — route, distance, cost, key details, and how to book Lukla flights on Trip.com.
Tuhin K. Chakma
8/24/20258 min read


🏔️ Everest Base Camp Trek — A Complete Guide & My Heartfelt Journey Through the Himalayas
Travelling is my passion. I never wait for the perfect time to come; instead, I make the time perfect. That moment you’re waiting for may never knock on your door. You must have the conviction to step out of your comfort zone, challenge yourself, and discover new diversity. Be adventurous, challenge yourself, and of course — love thyself.
That conviction led me to Nepal, to take on one of the most iconic adventures on Earth: the Everest Base Camp Trek. This is more than just a 12-day, 130 km trek through the Himalayas. It’s a journey that tests your endurance, clears your mind, and fills your soul with stories you will never forget.
🛫 Kathmandu to Lukla — The World’s Most Thrilling Flight
The adventure began in Kathmandu, Nepal’s bustling yet charming capital. At dawn, I boarded a small twin-otter plane bound for Lukla (2,860 m) — the gateway to the Everest region.
The flight lasted only 30 minutes, but every second felt eternal. Valleys gave way to jagged peaks, their shadows painting the landscape. As we descended, the short, slanted runway of Lukla appeared like a thread stitched into the mountainside. My heart pounded, brakes screeched, and then — silence. We had landed.
When I stepped outside, the crisp Himalayan air rushed into my lungs. It felt as if the stress I had carried from home melted away. In that silence, I imagined the mountains whispering:
“Love thyself. Enjoy everything. You can’t take anything with you. You are born alone, and you will leave alone.”
📌 Key Details: Kathmandu to Lukla Flight
Distance: 138 km
Flight Duration: 30–40 minutes
Airlines: Tara Air, Summit Air, Sita Air, Nepal Airlines
Aircraft: Small twin-otter/Dornier planes, 14–18 seats
Getting to Airport: 20–30 min taxi from Thamel (~500–700 NPR)
Risks: Weather delays are common; the runway is steep and short — keep 1–2 buffer days.
Guides/Porters: Hire in Kathmandu (Thamel) or Lukla ($25–35/day for guide, $15–25/day for porter).
👉 I booked my Lukla flight through Trip.com, which made the process smooth and stress-free.
🏞️ Phakding to Namche Bazaar — A Climb Into the Sherpa World
The trek from Phakding (2,610 m) to Namche Bazaar (3,440 m) took me nearly seven hours — a journey of roaring rivers, prayer flags, donkey caravans, and steep uphill climbs.
The trail followed the Dudh Koshi River, foaming and rushing below. At one point, I had to step aside and wait while a long line of donkeys jingled past, carrying supplies to higher villages.
In Toktok, I paused for tea while listening to a nearby waterfall. By Jorsalle (2,740 m), I was hungry and ready for the ultimate trekking meal — Dal Bhat. A plate of steaming rice, lentils, spinach, and pickles. As the Nepalis say: “Dal Bhat Power, 24 Hour!” That meal gave me the strength to face the steepest section.
Crossing the legendary Hillary Suspension Bridge, draped with thousands of prayer flags fluttering in the mountain wind, was both terrifying and uplifting. The final climb was brutal — but then, suddenly, Namche Bazaar appeared like a hidden amphitheater carved into the hillside.
📌 Key Details: Phakding to Namche Bazaar
Distance: 10–12 km (6–7 miles)
Duration: 5–7 hours
Elevation Gain: ~830 m (2,723 ft)
Villages & Landmarks: Zamfute (micro-hydro station), Toktok (waterfall), Bankar (suspension bridge), Monjo (Sagarmatha National Park entry), Jorsalle (lunch stop).
Food/Drinks: Dal Bhat, lemon-ginger honey tea, milk tea.
🏞️ Namche Bazaar — The Vibrant Heart of the Khumbu
After nearly seven hours of climbing from Phakding, Namche Bazaar finally appeared — a colorful, bowl-shaped town built into the hillside at 3,440 meters. Known as the Sherpa capital, Namche is more than just a stopover; it’s the beating heart of the Khumbu region.
Namche is alive with energy. Trekkers and climbers from around the world fill the narrow stone-paved streets. Trekking shops sell everything from down jackets to walking sticks, while cafés serve strong coffee to weary hikers. One of the town’s gems is the famous Hermann Helmers Bakery, where you’ll find genuine German, French, and English bakery items. After days of tea-house meals, tasting fresh apple pie, chocolate croissants, or cinnamon rolls, here feels like a celebration.
Namche also has a lively nightlife scene. The Irish Pub — the world’s highest Irish Pub — offers pool tables, live sports, music, and a chance to mingle with trekkers from all over the globe. Around it, you’ll find cozy shops, small bookstores, and even a local market where Sherpas trade their goods. Namche feels less like a remote Himalayan town and more like a global crossroads — a place where cultures and stories meet under the shadow of Everest.
🍵 Everest View Hotel — Tea With Everest
One of the highlights of staying in Namche is the side hike to the Everest View Hotel, located at 3,880 meters. The trail takes about 1–2 hours uphill, but the reward is unforgettable. The hotel is designed with huge glass windows that frame a panoramic view of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Ama Dablam.
I sat there sipping my ginger honey tea. The drink itself was ordinary, but with Everest standing tall in front of me, it felt like nectar from the gods. Many trekkers say this is the first place they see Everest clearly, and for some, the emotions are overwhelming.
The hotel is so iconic that many travelers even charter helicopters directly from Kathmandu to visit it, have tea, enjoy the breathtaking view, and then return — without trekking a single step. For trekkers, however, reaching the Everest View Hotel on foot makes the moment far more rewarding.
📌 Key Details: Namche Bazaar
Altitude: 3,440 meters (11,286 ft)
Role: Known as the “Sherpa Capital” and gateway to Everest Base Camp.
Acclimatization: Trekkers usually spend 2 nights here to adjust to the altitude before heading higher.
Side Hikes:
Everest View Hotel (3,880 m) → ~1–2 hours uphill, panoramic views of Everest, Ama Dablam, Lhotse.
Khunde & Khumjung Villages → Sherpa settlements, Hillary School, and Khumjung Monastery (famous for the “Yeti scalp”).
Shops & Markets: Dozens of trekking gear shops (jackets, poles, boots) and a Saturday market where locals trade goods.
Food & Drink:
Hermann Helmers Bakery → Genuine German, French & English bakery items (apple pie, croissants, cakes).
German Bakery → Fresh bread, chocolate cakes, apple strudel.
Irish Pub → The world’s highest Irish pub (pool tables, live sports, music).
Many tea houses serve Dal Bhat, momos, and ginger honey tea.
Internet & ATMs:
Wi-Fi available in cafés and lodges (sometimes slow, ~300–600 NPR per card).
2 ATMs available, but unreliable — better to carry enough cash from Kathmandu.
Crowd: Full of foreigners — trekkers, climbers, guides — making it the most international hub of the EBC trek.
❄️ Namche Bazaar to Everest Base Camp — The Road Ahead
Leaving behind the bustling streets of Namche Bazaar, the trail gradually gets quieter, wilder, and more spiritual. From here, every step is a climb into thinner air, harsher conditions, and deeper lessons from the Himalayas.
🏞️ Namche Bazaar → Tengboche (3,860 m)
The trek from Namche to Tengboche takes around 5–6 hours, winding through rhododendron forests and offering breathtaking views of Ama Dablam — the “Matterhorn of the Himalayas.” Along the way, yak caravans carrying supplies often force you to step aside on narrow trails.
I still remember stepping off the trail to let a long line of yaks pass. Their bells clanged rhythmically as their thick breath steamed in the cold air. One sudden push from a yak’s horns reminded me why trekkers are always warned: “Always stay on the mountainside, never on the edge.”
In Tengboche, most trekkers stay in simple tea houses. The highlight is visiting the Tengboche Monastery, the largest in the Khumbu region. As monks chanted during the evening prayers, the golden sunset bathed Ama Dablam in light — a moment that felt like standing in a living painting.
🏔️ Tengboche → Dingboche (4,410 m)
From Tengboche, the trail drops into a valley before climbing again towards Pangboche and finally reaching Dingboche in about 6–7 hours. The air feels thinner here; trekkers begin to experience the first signs of altitude — shortness of breath, headaches, fatigue.
In Pangboche, I met an elderly Sherpa who invited us for tea. He spoke of climbing Everest years ago as a porter. His hands were rough, his eyes sharp, and he laughed when we struggled with the altitude. “Slow walk, long life,” he said — a mantra I carried the rest of the trek.
Most trekkers spend two nights in Dingboche for acclimatization. There are good tea houses with warm dining halls, and trekkers often bond here, sharing stories of the road.
🏔️ Dingboche → Lobuche (4,910 m)
This stretch takes 5–6 hours and passes through the solemn Thukla Pass (4,830 m). Here stand dozens of memorials to climbers who lost their lives on Everest. The air is heavy, the silence deeper. Walking among the stone monuments was one of the most humbling experiences of the trek.
At Thukla Pass, I saw a fellow trekker break down in tears. She had lost a friend on a previous expedition, and standing among those memorials reopened that wound. Others placed prayer flags on the stones, silently honoring the fallen.
In Lobuche, accommodation is extremely basic. Rooms are tiny, with thin plywood walls, and nights are freezing. Water bottles left on the table often turn to ice by morning. Still, the camaraderie in the dining halls — with everyone huddled around the stove — makes the cold bearable.
🏔️ Lobuche → Gorak Shep (5,164 m) → Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
The trek to Gorak Shep takes about 3 hours, over rocky, glacial terrain. From here, trekkers drop their bags and continue the final 2–3 hour push to Everest Base Camp.
The trail is rough — loose rocks, glacial ice, and thin air. Every step feels like dragging your body uphill in slow motion. But then, suddenly, you see it: prayer flags fluttering, trekkers cheering, and the mighty Khumbu Glacier roaring in the background.
Incident on the way: As I reached Base Camp, clouds lifted for just a moment. Everest itself appeared, sharp and commanding, above the glacier. The entire group went silent, some crying, others just staring in disbelief. It was a moment of awe that no camera can truly capture.
In Gorak Shep, lodges are extremely basic, with limited food options. Most trekkers only spend one night here before heading down. Some also hike up to Kala Patthar (5,545 m) the next morning for the best sunrise view of Everest.
📌 Key Details: Namche to Everest Base Camp
Namche (3,440 m) → Tengboche (3,860 m) → 5–6 hrs
Tengboche → Dingboche (4,410 m) → 6–7 hrs
Dingboche → Lobuche (4,910 m) → 5–6 hrs (via Thukla Pass memorials)
Lobuche → Gorak Shep (5,164 m) → 3 hrs
Gorak Shep → Everest Base Camp (5,364 m) → 2–3 hrs
Accommodation: Simple tea houses with shared rooms & basic food. Prices rise with altitude.
Risks: Altitude sickness is common from Dingboche upward. Trek slowly, hydrate, and acclimatize.
🛏️ Where to Stay on the Everest Base Camp Trek
📍 Kathmandu (Before & After the Trek)
Most trekkers spend 1–2 nights in Thamel, Kathmandu, before and after the trek. Thamel is the backpacker hub — full of hotels, cafés, and trekking shops.
👉 Book your Kathmandu hotels easily through Trip.com, where you can compare prices and reviews before you arrive.
📍 Lukla (2,860 m)
If your flight lands late or you want to start fresh the next day, Lukla has several simple tea houses and lodges. Rooms are basic but comfortable enough for a night’s rest before the trek begins.
👉 Flights to Lukla can be arranged in advance via Trip.com, ensuring your adventure starts without hassle.
📍 Namche Bazaar (3,440 m)
Namche offers the broadest range of accommodation along the trek, from budget tea houses to lodges with attached bathrooms. Many trekkers recommend staying two nights here for acclimatization. You’ll also find cafés, bakeries (like Hermann Helmers), and even the world’s highest Irish Pub.
👉 For a more personal, emotional take on this trek, read my Medium blog: The Day the Himalayas Whispered — My Journey to Everest Base Camp.